Kopke Remodeling & Design

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Quartz, Granite, Solid Surfaces: Pros and Cons



When it comes to choosing a countertop material, you should consider more than just the look and the price.  Above is a handy chart made by our friends at Solid Surfaces Unlimited  in Sterling Heights.  It helps to make the similarities and differences more concise. 

Thank you for reading, and make sure to Call Kopke for your Kitchen Remodeling Needs!  (586) 777-6633 www.kopkehome.com

+Kayla Kopke , Marketing Manager, Kopke Remodeling & Design, *NEW SHOWROOM* 38200 Van Dyke Ave., Sterling Heights, MI 48312

Monday, May 6, 2013

Stone Identification: What Cleaning Products are Safe for My Counters?


Stone Identification

Know Your Stone
Natural stone can be classified into two general categories according to its composition: siliceous stone or calcareous stone. Knowing the difference is critical when selecting cleaning products.


What Cleaning Products are Safe for My Counters?

Siliceous stone is composed mainly of silica or quartz-like particles. It tends to be very durable and relatively easy to clean with mild acidic cleaning solutions. Types of siliceous stone include granite, slate, sandstone, quartzite, brownstone and bluestone.


Calcareous stone is composed mainly of calcium carbonate. It is sensitive to acidic cleaning products and frequently requires different cleaning procedures than siliceous stone. Types of calcareous stone include marble, travertine, limestone and onyx. What may work on siliceous stone may not be suitable on calcareous surfaces.


How to Tell the Difference

A simple acid sensitivity test can be performed to determine whether a stone is calcareous or siliceous. You will need about 4 oz. of a 10% solution of muriatic acid and an eye-dropper. Or you can use household vinegar and an eye-dropper. Because this test may permanently etch the stone, select an out of the way area (a corner or closet) and several inches away from the mortar joint. Apple a few drops of the acid solution to the stone surface on an area about the size of a quarter. If the stone is calcareous, the acid drops will begin to bubble or fizz vigorously. If little or no reaction occurs, the stone can be considered siliceous. Rinse the area thoroughly with clean water and wipe dry. This test may not be effective if surface sealers or liquid polishes have been applied. If an old sealer is preset, chip a small piece of stone away and apply the acid solution to the fractured surface.

CAUTION: Muriatic acid is corrosive and is considered to be a hazardous substance. Proper head and body protection is necessary when acid is used.




Cleaning Procedures and Recommendations


Floor Surfaces
Dust mop interior floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt and grit that will scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about eight steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Do not use vacuum cleaners that are worn. The metal or plastic attachments or the wheels may scratch the surface.

Other Surfaces
Clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral cleaner, stone soap (available at hardware stores or from your stone dealer) or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar or other acids on marble or limestone. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth. Change the rinse water frequently. Do not use scouring powders or creams; these products contain abrasives that may scratch the surface.

Bath and Other Wet Areas
In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.

Vanity Top Surfaces 
Vanity tops may need to have a penetrating sealer applied. Check with your installer for recommendations. A good quality marble wax or non-yellowing automobile paste wax can be applied to minimize water spotting.

Food Preparation Area
In food preparation areas, the stone may need to have a penetrating sealer applied. Check with your installer for recommendations. If a sealer is applied, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use on food preparation surfaces. If there are questions, check with the sealer manufacturer.

Outdoor Pool & Patio Areas
In outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

Source: Solid Surfaces Unlimited: Leader of Surface Materials, 6689 Sterling Drive South, Sterling Heights, MI 48312.  586-274-9668, http://www.ssunlimited.net

Thursday, April 4, 2013

How Much Does Remodeling Cost (in Southeast Michigan) ?

Yesterday one of my Salespeople came to me, frustrated, asking "How do we educate the public as to how much Remodeling projects cost?"  It is very often, from my understanding, that homeowners have skewed expectations of what it really costs to complete the project they are envisioning.  Whether it is HGTV programs showing super-cheap D.I.Y. fixes, billboards falsely advertising the complete $4,000 Kitchen, or a combination of both, it is my goal to help de-mystify the entire process.


Today I went through all of our jobs from 2012 and grouped them together by category.  The following chart highlights my findings:

Kitchens (Major) Kitchens (Minor) Bathrooms (Major) Bathrooms (Minor)
Low $13,962 $3,000 $8,499 $1,397
High $30,175 $9,196 $20,673 $11,276
Avg $22,825 $6,097 $13,265 $4,764

Additions Windows (Vinyl) Windows (Wood)
Low $10,600 $565 $1,384
High $63,304 $12,000 $57,511
Avg $28,669 $4,521 $11,186

Please note that this data is not indicative of the entire Detroit Metro Market, just jobs completed by Kopke Remodeling & Design in the year 2012.


To clarify further, a Minor Kitchen or Minor Bath project is one in which Layout is not rearranged - plumbing is not moved - complete tear-out does not take place.  These projects include things like cabinet replacing or refacing, new countertops, new flooring, tub to shower conversion, etc.


As far as the windows are concerned, these numbers do not (for the most part) refer to an entire replacement of all windows in the home. Our customers often purchase a handful of windows at a time, sometimes even just 1.

These numbers are aimed to show you what other Southeast Michigan Homeowners like you are spending on their remodeling projects.

Click here to see enlarged charts of data from all categories.




 You will notice that all categories have quite a large range.  For example, Kitchen remodels can range from 13,000 to 30,000.  These prices directly reflect the prices of the different items you choose to include in your project.  There is expensive tile, and there is inexpensive tile.  You can choose a laminate countertop, or go with Quartz.  So ultimately, you decide how much you want your project to cost based on the items you choose.  The size of the room is also a factor of course, as are different obstacles that are unique to each an every home, such as updating the plumbing or electrical.  See our other article "Why Does Remodeling Cost So Much?" for more.

 Thank you for reading!  As always, don't hesitate to email me at kkopke@kopkehome.com or call (586) 777-6633 with any additional questions you may have.  I will do the research and get them answered!

+Kayla Kopke , Marketing Manager, Kopke Remodeling & Design, www.kopkehome.com, "YOUR REMODELER FOR LIFE".





Friday, March 15, 2013

Wood Windows vs. Vinyl Windows: Pros and Cons

Wood windows, Fiberglass windows and Vinyl windows all serve the same basic functions of keeping the elements out, letting air in (when opened), and security.  The main difference is what they look like and what they cost. All three types are available in cheaper quality, less expensive versions, as well as higher quality, more expensive versions.

In general though, wood windows look better, have more options, but cost more.  In my home I chose to go with the Pella windows with built in blinds. With the built in blinds, I didn't need to buy any window treatments, and I have the added benefit of being able to see the wood frames and large wood moldings that we used to frame them out on the inside. The windows, when stained, look like furniture. Another benefit of wood windows is that you can paint or stain each one to suit the individual room decor.

Daughter  & Marketing Manager +Kayla Kopke 's Room

Pella "Designer Series" windows have the most options and accessories compared to other manufacturers.  If you don't want or need the accessories, other wood manufacturers can be considered, such as Andersen, Marvin, Weathershield, etc.

If the client seeks to minimize their expense and maximize the energy efficiency, vinyl is the way to go. Vinyl windows are available in many different prices, from very low, to mid high. It would be rare under normal circumstances for a vinyl window to cost more than a wood window of similar size and style.

There are basically 6 things to look for when shopping for windows:

1) The main frame - construction details - size - thickness - beefyness - does it look cheap, or does it look like good quality?

2) The glass system - it could be double glass, or triple glass, Low-E with Argon, laminated, tempered, etc.  Check U- values, R-values, Solar Heat Gain values.  The spacer used to separate the glass panels is very important - "Superspacer" is the best, but "Intercept" is the most widely used because of cost savings in manufacturing.

3) Locks, hardware, weatherstripping, screens, accessories - (all things that are attached to the windows) - aluminum screening is better than fiberglass - triple weatherstripping is better than double - recessed locks look better, some screen clips are cheap and will break off easy - you can usually tell the better quality components by visually inspecting the windows.  Some hidden items are balance systems on double hungs, weep holes, foam filled insulation, inner reinforcements, etc.

4) The warranty - be aware that most warranties if read closely are merely a list of what is not included - it is rare to get an unlimited warranty. They are a selling tool and really just a piece of paper.

5) The reputation of the manufacturer is more impotant than the warranty papers - ask yourself, if the company you hire to do the installation goes out of business, (a common occurance), what is the manufacturer going to do for you if you have a product problem?  The best manufacturers of the best quality products have the best reputation for service after the fact. On the other hand, the lowest priced products are going to come with little or no service down the road. Ask around, and it won't be hard to find people who have an opinion about their good or bad experience with windows.

6) The reputation of the installation company - the basic truth is that you will be asking somebody to install the product of your choice - most companies specialize at installing certain brands. Hiring a company that has a business office is much less risky than hiring someone who works out of their home (an independent). Hiring an independent is often looked at as a "better deal" because the price is lower, but the extra risk is not worth the savings. We are asked to fix someone else's "botched" job quite often. Often times the independent is not insured, licensed, or qualified to do the work properly, and they are usually impossible to contact for service issues.

+Dave Kopke, Kopke Remodeling & Design, www.kopkehome.com 

Learn more about Kopke and get a quote for replacing your windows today.


Thursday, March 14, 2013

Refacing vs. Replacing: Cabinets Make the Kitchen


Below is an article featuring Dave Kopke that was published last week in the St. Clair Shores Sentinel

By Sara Kandel
C & G Staff Writer

» click to enlarge «
Cabinets make the kitchen
The showroom at Kopke Remodeling and Design, currently in St. Clair Shores but in the process of moving to Sterling Heights, features a variety of options for cabinets and countertops.
Out-of-date cabinetry can make any room seem drab, and with spring just around the corner, there’s no better time to clear out those old cupboards and create a space to be proud of.

There are two ways to go when it comes to updating kitchen cabinets: refacing or replacing.

Refacing deals with just the surface and is perfect for people who like the amount of cabinet space they currently have and the layout of their kitchen, but who want to update a tired appearance or out-of-date look.

Refacing just renews cabinet surfaces and can completely change the feel of the room in less time and for less money than a complete replacement. However, not all companies offer refacing services.

“A lot of times, people come to us to ask if we can reface, and a lot of companies do that, but we ourselves do not because, ultimately, for the price you’re spending, for only 10 percent more, you can replace them and have brand new cabinets, which can address spacing issues or include updated features, like pull-out drawers,” said Mari Vaglica, the director of sales and marketing at Borchert Kitchen and Bath in Washington Township.

Dave Kopke, of Kopke Remodeling and Design in Saint Clair Shores, agreed and said, for not much more money, his team can put in brand new cabinets that often provide additional space and allow for more room in the kitchen. Kopke estimated an average refacing at $7,000 and an average replacement at $10,000. He usually recommends replacement, but every once in a while, he does recommend refacing.

“When your countertops are granite or marble, then you reface,” he said. “If they are Formica, it’s smarter to replace. When you’ve already spent the money on nice countertops, refacing becomes a good option.

“When remodeling a kitchen, you have to think about it logically; there is an order of events to follow. You do your cabinets first and then your countertops, but if you already have nice countertops and don’t want to spend the money to replace them, refacing is the best option.”

Kopke usually tries to convince clients of the benefits of complete replacement, though. He said glass is a huge trend right now, but to have a glass cabinet is to lose storage space, though more often than not, it’s space that a replacement project can find elsewhere.

He uses the example of “L” cabinets, or corner cabinets. In many older homes, there is no cabinet space in the corners, but with the advent of Lazy Susan-style cabinets, a contractor can put a sizable cabinet in the corner to free up enough room for a glass cabinet.

“Just about everyone thinks about getting some kind of glass in their kitchen, but it’s harder to do it with smaller kitchens because you don’t want your everyday glasses or Tupperware showing,” Kopke said. “Glass fronts are for display cabinets — wine glasses or china. You have to have enough storage space to be able to dedicate the glass cabinet just for display.”

For those who like the idea of an open-concept cabinet but don’t want to go with the glass display cabinet or shelving, cabinets with a basket-weave front are gaining  popularity, especially among people opting for Old World finishes.

“Old World finishes are very popular right now,” Kopke said. “They take a brand new cabinet and make it look 100 years old by adding scratches, rubbing screws against it, hitting it with chains  and rubbing it down to the bare wood in spots before applying the final finish and applying the polyurethane.”

Old World finishes are especially popular in vintage whites and off-whites as an alternative option to bright white.

“A lot of first-time homebuyers seem to be interested in bright white, but I recommend against it,” Kopke said.

“Bright white cabinets only have a 30 percent satisfaction rate. They show more dirt and grime and grease, and tend to stain easily. The seams in the wood also become visible after a short period, which makes people feel like the cabinets are falling apart. Darker stains show a lot less, and for busy kitchens, I recommend darker stains. Bright white cabinetry is really best for show kitchens or for people who eat out a lot and won’t be spending too much time cooking in their kitchen.”

For those who do want to have bright white, though, Kopke recommends easy-to-clean melamine or thermofoil finishes — skins that are placed on the cabinets, making them easier to clean and lessening the chance of serious staining.

A new set of cabinets can spruce up any kitchen, but Kopke warns that, once the new cabinets are in, customers often realize they want even more work done. That’s why he usually brings up the option of a complete remodel.

“They might think the old floor is just fine, but once the new cabinets are in, they realize the floor looks old, in comparison —  especially in bathrooms — and they call us back, wanting to redo the floor. But now, to put in new flooring, we have to pull out everything we just did, which we can do, but it’s more of a hassle and it saves time and money to do it before putting the new cabinetry in.”

Like most remodelers and builders, Kopke works with a handful of local banks and credit unions so customers have a variety of financing options, many of which he said can be stretched up to 15 years with low interest rates and no early payoff penalties.

Still, not everyone has the money to or wants to finance a brand new kitchen. But luckily a cabinet makeover doesn’t have to cost thousands; a paint job and some new hardware can go a long way in updating the look of an out-of-date kitchen.

The most important thing to remember when painting cabinetry is to always choose a shade darker than the stain. Dark stains can bleed through lighter shades of paint, even after multiple applications, so it’s best to pick a color darker than the stain.

When painting cabinetry, many people choose to play with color and pick one color for the door and another contrasting color for the cabinet space inside. Updating the hardware on cabinets is a breeze and, in many cases,  it doesn’t take much more than a screwdriver to remove old handles or knobs and put new ones on. Most home improvement stores carry huge selections of hardware  in silver, gold, black, copper and a variety of other tints and styles.

“Bigger, larger handles are the trend right now, but as far as style goes, everyone’s is different and it seems almost everyone that comes in picks a different one,” Kopke said.

Adding a backsplash on the wall space behind counters is another popular sprucing-up option. The real deal can cost quite a bit, especially if the space is large, but most home improvement stores carry sheets of adhesive backsplash that are easy to adhere and won’t break the bank.

When it comes to kitchen updates, even small improvements can increase the value of a home. According to the Cost Versus Value Home Improvement Report, kitchen upgrades tend to increase the value of the home by 50 percent of the cost immediately, by around the 100 percent mark in five years, and often by more than the cost of the improvement in the years that follow.

“It’s not wise to upgrade right now for the sole purpose of selling, but if you aren’t going to sell for a while or if you plan on living in the home, upgrades definitely add to the value,” Kopke said.
You can reach C & G Staff Writer Sara Kandel at skandel@candgnews.com or at (586)498-1030.

Learn more about Kopke Remodeling & Design at www.kopkehome.com

Monday, February 25, 2013

2013 Spring Home Show Season in Full Swing

Here is our Home Show Schedule for Spring 2013.  Hope to see you there!  Click on each photo for more information and to RSVP.

Mt. Clemens Feb 22-24 & March 1-3

 Grosse Pointe Farms March 16

 Royal Oak March 23

St. Clair Shores April 13

Monday, February 11, 2013

How Can I Tell if a Cabinet is Good Quality?

"How to Buy Remodeling" Blog Series – Part Four



Cabinets are basically designed in two categories: Budget-priced and Custom.  There is a middle category called semi-custom but it doesn’t have anything to do with the construction of the cabinet, it has to do with the available sizes and stain colors.

Your budget cabinetry is made out of as much particle board as possible to keep the price down.  Particle board is not a good product for the box, or the shelves, or the tops, or the bottoms of a cabinet.  The goal would be to have the least amount of particle board as possible.  A good quality cabinet has no particle board in it at all.  It has plywood veneers, MDF veneers, or other types of veneers or solid woods.  That is how you tell the difference: look and see, with the top removed, how much of it is particle board.  Every cabinet manufacturer has a specification sheet with an exploded view of the cabinet and how it’s made, every part is identified.  I’m pretty sure it’s like a Cabinet Manufacturer Associations Pledge to Honesty.  No one would lie about the way their cabinet is made.  It’s just a matter of what you are looking for: Quality or Price?



Next are the Doors themselves.  Everybody makes a face frame that is of solid wood, and most offer a door that is solid wood, but with some companies, the door itself is MDF (which is not bad) or a combination of real wood and veneers, where the center portion is veneer and the outer portion is real wood.  Those are going to be lower quality and less durable.  A lot of companies that are making furniture that you see in furniture stores are made that way.  Where the appearance is very nice (the shine and the color), but the quality is very low and they don’t last.

The real question is: how long are the cabinets going to last?  Again, like countertops, moisture is the enemy of a cabinet.  And the more particle board you have in the manufacturing of the product, the more it is going to fall apart when it’s exposed to moisture.  A quick example would be the sink cabinet.  As you know, everybody’s sink once in a while drips water underneath, you don’t notice it, and it eventually rots out the bottom of the cabinet.  If that cabinet was made out of plywood, it would last a lot longer than if it were made out of particle board.  As a matter of fact, a lot of companies are now selling a vinyl covering for their particle board sink cabinets to try and stop the water from penetrating when it drips.  So that is something you could look for.

The next thing about cabinetry quality would be the drawers.  Drawers can be made out of particle board, MDF, plywood, or solid wood.  It doesn’t matter to me what it’s made out of, because they all are rated to hold approximately 75 or more pounds.  The rating of the drawer is based on the drawer guide, not the drawer itself.  A lot of companies are showing and pushing 5/8” thick, full dovetail, solid birch, pine or maple drawer boxes.  They are pretty to look at, but they’re just holding your silverware.  If you had a particle board drawer, it still holds silverware.  What makes the difference is the drawer glide system.  If you have a weak glide system, eventually the drawer is going to fall off.  If you drop a drawer and it’s made out of particle board, it will break.  If it’s made out of dovetail solid wood, it will bounce.  You can put it right back in and it won’t be a problem.  But most people don’t drop the drawers so it’s really not an issue.  If you have broken your drawer, then the manufacturer is going to get you a new one.  Or any reface company can make you a new one relatively inexpensively and put it in.  I’m not necessarily condoning particle board as a drawer box, I’m just saying it doesn’t matter that much.

How do you know if you have a good drawer glide system?

Well, you can look at them.  The ones that are bigger are better.  The ones that are real thin are not going to work for the long run.  Visually inspect it: you can tell a good one, a more expensive one, from a cheaper one. As a general rule, the ones that are mounted on the sides are cheaper, and the ones mounted underneath are better.  Some of them are very sophisticated where they close by themselves, soft-close they’re called – when you give them a little nudge, they finish closing on their own.  Those are the high-tech ones.  If the drawer opens all the way out, full-extension, they are more expensive than if the drawer opens ¾ of the way out.

Your standard, side-mount drawer guide is real flimsy, the drawer shakes if you wiggle it, and it only extends ¾ of the way. Your stronger ones are full-extension, they don’t wobble as much, and then your soft-close are the best.

I recommend a nice looking drawer that is durable.  And usually if you are buying an all-plywood cabinet it’s going to come with a plywood or solid wood drawer box.  If you’re buying an all particle board cabinet, it’s going to have a particle board drawer box.  And they will have upgrades available just to upgrade the drawer box.

A lot of cabinet companies, Kraftmaid for example, will give you a particle board box, but then they offer you a plywood side on all exposed sides.  Between the cabinets where it doesn’t matter it is particle board, but everywhere you can see is plywood with a veneer.  So that is an interesting option that they offer.  The problem is that by the time you take a particle board box, and add your plywood sides as an upgrade (they make a lot of money on their option upgrades), you could have just as easily bought a plywood cabinet to begin with.  So there is really no reason to take a particle board cabinet and try to upgrade it.  Just buy a better cabinet to begin with.  Obviously different cabinet shops are going to give you different advice, there are 1,000 different brands of cabinets out there.

What I advise is to look at the box of the cabinet without a countertop on it (so you can see how it’s made), or an exploded view from their pamphlet, ask about plywood vs. particle board, and look at the shelves and see how thick they are (they should be a minimum of 5/8”, I wouldn’t recommend any ½” shelves because they warp).

Feel free to stop by our showroom for a hands-on look at all the different cabinet styles that Dave has discussed, from particle board to soft-close systems, we have the right cabinet for every style and budget.  Located at 29325 Harper Ave. in St. Clair Shores, Kopke Remodeling & Design is known for happy customers, good quality products, and fair prices.  586-777-6633

+Dave Kopke, President and C.E.O., Kopke Remodeling & Design, Kitchen and Bath Remodeling and Window and Door Replacements in Greater Detroit